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Kuti's Royal Pier Thai

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DINNER was cooked by a man glorying in the memorable name Lion-King White-Lotus.

So there can be no doubting the authenticity of the fare on offer at Southampton's newest oriental eatery, Kuti's Royal Thai Pier.

Decked out from head to foot in the curry chain's trademark purple, the former Royal Pier is unmistakably a Kuti venue, something that has given the former pier gateway a new lease of life.

And what a welcome development this is for a city where precious little of its extensive waterfront is open to visitors.

Upstairs, past the extravagant glassbubble chandelier is perhaps the best view of Southampton's industrial dockscape anywhere.

With the ferries on the left, the cruise ship giants pulling up just to the right and the even bigger container ships steaming past in front, it's a fantastic spot just to stop for a drink and watch the marine world go by, something management are keen to encourage locals to take advantage of.

If you choose to stay for a bite as well, you'll find something every bit as impressive on your palate.

We started with a mixed plate of starters that boasted familiar favourites - such as a selection of superior spring rolls, barbecued chicken, chicken satay, prawn toast and delicate mini Thai fish cakes. It was gone in a second with a chatty table for four abruptly silenced by its arrival apart from assorted crunching, chewing and slurping noises.

Next up was pla neung manow, which for those a little rusty on their Thai, was steamed sea bass with garlic and coriander in chilli lemon sauce.

Delicate yet still packed with flavour, this king of fish was served whole and artfully arranged so it sat up and looked you squarely in the eye, challenging you not to enjoy every mouthful.

Every bit its equal was pla yang bai tong, another sea bass, only this time wrapped in banana leaves and served in a spicy sauce - exquisite, with white tender, moist flesh just falling off the bone.

Stir fried roasted duck, with fresh ginger and spring onions in soy sauce and bean paste (ped phad king) together with Thai noodles with chicken, bean sprouts, chopped leeks and sweet turnips (pad Thai) completed a table groaning under the weight of exotic delicacies.

It was all washed down with lots of lovely Thai Singha beer.

To finish was bowls of banana slices in coconut milk and egg custard with oh-so-sticky sweet rice that was so good that we actually ordered seconds.

The Royal Thai Pier is a triumph and underlines that when it comes to curry, Kuti has a name to reckon with, just like Mr Lion-King.

■ Kuti's Royal Thai Pier, The Royal Pier, Gate House, Town Quay, Southampton. Tel: 023 8033 9211.

1:17pm Thursday 21st August 2008

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